Newsletter No. 523

• 新闻与传播学院 School of Journalism and Communication • 专研流行文化、性别、青年身分认同、环球传播、文化政策与创意工业 Specializes in popular culture, gender, youth identities, global media and communication, cultural policy, and creative industries • 可能是中大唯一化妆穿裙子的男教授 Probably the only male professor at CUHK wearing makeup and donning a skirt 08 # 5 2 3 | 1 9 . 0 9 . 2 0 1 8 口 谈 实 录 / V iva V oce 冯应谦 教授 Prof. Anthony Fung 修饰仪容有何社会意义? 在香港这样的国际化城市,固然讲究实力,外在的呈现也 十分重要。修饰仪容,是专业形象的一部分,也是社交 礼仪,有助建立良好印象,打开沟通的管道。 你怎样开始化妆? 我以前在电视台工作或现在上电视节目时,出镜都 有专人化妆。二十多年下来,我觉得与其假手于人, 不如自己做主建立形象。 为什么自己设计服装? 现买的衣服总是不称身也不称心,未能切合我想表达的形象 和讯息,我便尝试画出心中的式样,自选布料订制衣服。如果 创意是传播学必备的元素,设计衣服便是我的创意实践。 如何以服装明志? 首要考虑是场合和环境。行政会议要穿得正式一点,文化会议 可以较为夸张和破格。我曾订造一件半透明的西装外套,可以 出席比较正式的场合,在规范之下也突破了框框。讲授性别课 题,我会穿裙子,意味突破社会既定的男女典型。 试过因装扮让人家误会你的性取向吗? 常有,熟朋友也问过多次。不少陌生人前来攀谈,盯着我的打 扮可又不好意思直接提出疑问。别人以为我是同性恋,我不会 不高兴,反认为这是沟通的切入点。社会应该是包容多元的。 你自幼的家庭教育可有给男女孩定型? 我家没怎样强调什么是男孩子当做不当做的。小时候我常进 厨房,我会买菜煮饭洗衣服。爸爸给我很大的自由,规条不外 是早睡,不要外宿。在这样的氛围里长大,我反而很早便会思 索对错等问题,为自己的选择负责。说到教导孩子,价值观 的塑造远比性别定型来得重要吧? 学校教育呢? 我在华仁念中学,耶稣会的神父非常开明,只要不做坏人, 什么都可以做。你想缺课吗?他不会断然拒绝,而会看理由 是否充分,鼓励你独立思考。所以进了大学我懂得自我管理, 不会因突如其来的自由而失控,走向放任的极端。 家人怎样看你的装扮? 我家三口—我、太太和女儿—都有己见有个性,互相尊重, 不随便干预,不妄下判断,只会提出有建设的意见。婚后,我 一箱箱个人护理物品搬到新居,比太太的还要多。她也是念新 闻与传播的,自不会大惊小怪。女儿会带我到Sephora看化妆 品。她没有为心目中的爸爸划定框框,我为此也挺自豪的。 What is the social significance of making up and dressing up? In an international city like Hong Kong, your outward appearance is as important as your abilities. Making up and dressing up is an integral part of one’s professional image, as well as a social etiquette which greatly contributes to image building and effective communication. How did you first start to wear makeup? I started to appear for TV shows from time to time since some 20 years ago. A professional makeup artist would help me put on makeup. I later decided that it would be better to take charge of my own image building than relying on someone else. Why did you design your own clothes? Ready-to-wear clothes generally do not fit well and are undesirable because they fail to convey the image and message I try to get across. For that reason, I sketch my own patterns, choose the fabrics, and have my clothes custom-made. If creativity is an essential element of communication studies, then fashion design is the vehicle for the expression of my creativity. How do you communicate your ideas through fashion? The first things to consider are the occasion and the context. Formal attire is required for administrative meetings, while a dose of exaggeration and inconformity is acceptable at cultural meetings. I once ordered a custom-made translucent suit suitable for formal occasions, and that was an acceptable departure from the norm. When I am teaching gender studies, I would wear skirt as a repudiation of gender stereotypes. Have you ever been questioned about your sexual orientation on account of your appearance? Yes, I am frequently asked by people I know well. Many strangers approach me, riveting their gaze on my clothing but are too timid to ask. Many people think that I am gay, but I am not annoyed by that. There should be more diversity and tolerance in our society. I would make use of people’s curiosity about my sexual orientation to initiate communication. Did your parents have any gender-stereotypical expectations of you? My parents never told me what a boy should or should not do. When I was small, I often helped out in the kitchen, and did grocery shopping and laundry. My dad gave me a great deal of freedom, and the only rules were going to bed early and no sleeping over at someone else’s home. Growing up in this environment, I learnt to contemplate what’s right and wrong at an early age, and take responsibility for my own actions. When it comes to parenting, isn’t the imparting of values more important than gender stereotyping? Then how about your schooling? I went to Wah Yan College for my secondary education. The Jesuit fathers were very open-minded. As long as you didn’t wander off the right path, you could pretty much do what you like. If you wanted to be absent from class, he wouldn’t reject your request outright. He would decide whether your reasons were justified or not, and encourage you to think independently. Therefore I was quite good at managing myself upon entry into university. I did not lose my self-control and descend into indulgence even when I enjoyed a lot more freedom all of a sudden. How do your family see the way you dress up? My wife, daughter, and I are all independent thinkers, and we respect one another. We don’t interfere and judge, but will only give constructive advice. After marriage, I moved into our new home with boxes of personal care items, which outnumbered my wife’s. She didn’t raise an eyebrow at all. Well, she’s also a journalism graduate. My daughter would take me to Sephora to check out its beauty products. She doesn’t have any stereotypes of what a dad should be, and I am quite proud of that. S. Lo

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